Through the Eyes of Travellers — Al-Biruni, Ibn Battuta and Bernier

Travellers noticed what local people took for granted, and so they wrote about things no chronicle bothered to record — how a postal system worked, what betel leaves were, how a slave market or a widow's death on the pyre struck a stranger. But a traveller also brings his own world with him, and his comparisons say as much about home as about India. This chapter reads three accounts written centuries apart, by a scholar from Central Asia, a jurist from North Africa and a physician from France, and asks the paper's favourite question of each: what did he see, and what shaped the way he saw it?

Al-Biruni and the Kitab-ul-Hind (Eleventh Century)

Al-Biruni was born in 973 in Khwarizm, in present-day Uzbekistan, an important centre of learning, and was well versed in several languages — Syriac, Arabic, Persian, Hebrew and Sanskrit. In 1017, when Sultan Mahmud invaded Khwarizm, he took several scholars and poets back to his capital, Ghazni, among them Al-Biruni. He arrived as a hostage, but grew to like the city and spent the rest of his life there, until his death at the age of 70. It was at Ghazni that he developed an interest in India; he spent years in the company of Brahmana priests and scholars, learning Sanskrit and studying religious and philosophical texts.

His Kitab-ul-Hind, written in Arabic, is simple and lucid. It is divided into 80 chapters on subjects such as religion and philosophy, festivals, astronomy, alchemy, manners and customs, social life, weights and measures, iconography, laws and metrology. Each chapter follows a distinctive structure: it begins with a question, follows this with a description based on Sanskritic traditions, and concludes with a comparison with other cultures. Al-Biruni identified three barriers to understanding India: language — Sanskrit was so different from Arabic and Persian that ideas could not easily be translated; differences in religious beliefs and practices; and the self-absorption and insularity of the local population. He relied almost entirely on Brahmanical texts — the Vedas, the Puranas, the Bhagavad Gita, the works of Patanjali and the Manusmriti — so his picture of Indian society is largely the picture those texts paint.

ℹ️ Al-Biruni on caste — comparison, then disagreement
He explained the caste system by comparing it with ancient Persia, where four social categories were recognised — knights and princes; monks, fire-priests and lawyers; physicians, astronomers and other scientists; and peasants and artisans — to show that social divisions were not unique to India. But he rejected the notion of pollution: everything that falls into a state of impurity, he argued, strives to regain its original purity, as the sun cleanses the air and salt in the sea stops water from becoming polluted, so the idea that some people are permanently impure is contrary to the laws of nature.

Ibn Battuta's Rihla (Fourteenth Century)

Ibn Battuta was born in Tangier, Morocco, into a respectable family known for its expertise in Islamic religious law, and was trained in law and theology. Before coming to the subcontinent he had travelled to Mecca and extensively in Syria, Iraq, Persia, Yemen, Oman and along the coast of East Africa. Travelling overland through Central Asia, he reached Sind in 1333. He had heard of Muhammad bin Tughlaq, Sultan of Delhi, as a generous patron of arts and letters, and the Sultan, impressed by his scholarship, appointed him the qazi, or judge, of Delhi. He remained there for several years until he fell out of favour; in 1342 he was ordered to proceed to China as the Sultan's envoy to the Mongol ruler. He went on to the Malabar coast, the Maldives — where he served as qazi for eighteen months — Sri Lanka, Bengal and Assam, Sumatra and the Chinese port of Zaytun, and returned home in 1354. His travel account, the Rihla, written in Arabic, was recorded by a scribe from his dictation.

  • The unfamiliar: he described the coconut — a nut "resembling a man's head" — and the paan, the betel, a plant grown only for its leaves, as things his readers would never have seen.
  • Cities: he found the cities of the subcontinent full of opportunity for those with drive and skill. Delhi, the largest, was densely populated and prosperous, with a wall pierced by twenty-eight gates; Daulatabad was no less in size. Markets were not only places of exchange but hubs of social and economic activity.
  • The postal system: he was amazed by its efficiency. There were two kinds: the horse-post (uluq), run by royal horses stationed every four miles, and the foot-post (dawa), with three stations per mile, where runners carried letters at a run. News from Sind reached Delhi in five days.
  • Slaves: slaves were openly sold in markets and regularly exchanged as gifts; Ibn Battuta himself bought horses, camels and slaves as gifts for the Sultan. The Sultan also employed female slaves to keep a watch on his nobles — a sign of how varied slaves' work was.

François Bernier — a Doctor with a Difference (Seventeenth Century)

François Bernier, a Frenchman, was a doctor, political philosopher and historian. He came to the Mughal empire in search of opportunities and was in India for twelve years, from 1656 to 1668. He was closely associated with the Mughal court as a physician to Prince Dara Shukoh, the eldest son of Shah Jahan, and later as an intellectual and scientist with Danishmand Khan, an Armenian noble at the court. His Travels in the Mogul Empire is marked by detailed observation and critical insight — and by constant comparison of India with Europe, generally France, in a series of oppositions in which Europe always came out ahead.

His central argument was that in Mughal India there was no private property in land — the emperor owned all the land and distributed it to his nobles — and that this was disastrous: landholders could not pass land on to their children, so they had no interest in improving it, agriculture was ruined, peasants were oppressed, and there was no middle class. Mughal India was, in his account, a tyranny of a king over impoverished subjects. His ideas travelled far: the French philosopher Montesquieu used them to develop the idea of oriental despotism, and in the nineteenth century Karl Marx described an Asiatic mode of production, in which a state appropriated the surplus of largely self-sufficient villages.

🎯 Why historians question Bernier's picture
Mughal sources show peasants with rights in their land that they could buy, sell and inherit, rural society marked by sharp differences of wealth rather than uniform poverty, and a large class of merchants and artisans. Bernier himself described crafts flourishing and goods exported for gold and silver. His frame — France as the measure — led him to see in India the opposite of what he valued at home, and his account was also a warning to France about where unchecked royal power could lead.

Bernier also described "camp towns" — towns that owed their existence and survival to the imperial camp, coming into being when the court arrived and declining when it moved. And he gave one of the most detailed descriptions of sati, of a child widow at Lahore forced to the pyre — one of several practices that travellers singled out because it marked the treatment of women as different from what they knew. Other travellers of the period included the Portuguese Duarte Barbosa, who wrote on trade and society in south India, the French jeweller Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, and the Italian doctor Manucci, who never returned to Europe and settled in India.

Three travellers side by side
TravellerFromWork, languageKey point
Al-BiruniKhwarizm (Uzbekistan); b. 973Kitab-ul-Hind, ArabicThree barriers; relied on Sanskrit texts; rejected pollution
Ibn BattutaTangier (Morocco); in Sind 1333Rihla, ArabicQazi of Delhi; postal system; slaves; coconut and paan
François BernierFrance; in India 1656–1668Travels in the Mogul EmpireNo private property in land; India vs Europe

Key takeaways

  • Al-Biruni, born in Khwarizm in 973, was taken to Ghazni by Sultan Mahmud in 1017 and wrote the Kitab-ul-Hind in Arabic in 80 chapters.
  • Each chapter of the Kitab-ul-Hind begins with a question, describes Sanskritic tradition, and ends with a comparison with other cultures.
  • Al-Biruni named three barriers — language, religious difference, local insularity — and rejected the idea of pollution as against nature.
  • Ibn Battuta of Tangier reached Sind in 1333, became qazi of Delhi under Muhammad bin Tughlaq, was sent to China in 1342 and wrote the Rihla.
  • The horse-post (uluq) had royal horses every four miles; the foot-post (dawa) had three stations per mile.
  • Bernier, in India 1656–1668 and physician to Dara Shukoh, argued there was no private property in land; Montesquieu and Marx built on the idea.
  • A traveller's frame of comparison shaped what he noticed; Mughal evidence contradicts Bernier on property and on uniform poverty.

Practice questions (8)

Attempt each one before opening the answer. Every explanation names the tempting wrong option as well as the right one, because that is where marks are lost.

  1. Each chapter of Al-Biruni's Kitab-ul-Hind follows a distinctive structure. Which of the following describes it correctly?

    1. A story from his travels, followed by a moral
    2. A verse from the Quran, followed by commentary
    3. A question, a description based on Sanskritic traditions, and a comparison with other cultures
    4. A list of rulers, followed by their military campaigns
    Show answer

    Answer: C — A question, a description based on Sanskritic traditions, and a comparison with other cultures

    Al-Biruni opened each chapter with a question, described the subject from Sanskrit texts and closed by comparing it with other cultures — a structure suited to a scholar explaining an unfamiliar society. He did not travel widely within India, so a chapter built on travel stories describes Ibn Battuta's kind of writing rather than his.
  2. Which of the following was NOT one of the barriers Al-Biruni identified to understanding India?

    1. The Sanskrit language, very different from Arabic and Persian
    2. The absence of written texts on religion and philosophy
    3. Differences in religious beliefs and practices
    4. The self-absorption and insularity of the local population
    Show answer

    Answer: B — The absence of written texts on religion and philosophy

    The three barriers were language, religious difference and the insularity of the local population. Far from finding no texts, Al-Biruni relied heavily on Sanskrit works — the Vedas, Puranas, the Bhagavad Gita, Patanjali and the Manusmriti — so the "absence of texts" option contradicts his whole method.
  3. Read the source (paraphrased): "There are two kinds of post. The horse-post uses royal horses stationed at a distance of every four miles; the foot-post has three stations to each mile." This description of the postal system comes from:

    1. Ibn Battuta's Rihla
    2. Al-Biruni's Kitab-ul-Hind
    3. Bernier's Travels in the Mogul Empire
    4. Abu'l Fazl's Ain-i Akbari
    Show answer

    Answer: A — Ibn Battuta's Rihla

    Ibn Battuta described the horse-post (uluq) and the foot-post (dawa) of the Delhi Sultanate in his Rihla, noting that news from Sind reached Delhi in five days. Al-Biruni wrote centuries earlier and from texts rather than observation of the Sultanate's roads, and Bernier and the Ain belong to the Mughal period, long after the Tughlaq postal system he saw.
  4. Arrange the following events in chronological order: (A) Ibn Battuta reaches Sind (B) Al-Biruni is taken to Ghazni by Sultan Mahmud (C) Bernier arrives in the Mughal empire (D) Ibn Battuta is sent to China as the Sultan's envoy

    1. B, D, A, C
    2. A, B, D, C
    3. B, A, C, D
    4. B, A, D, C
    Show answer

    Answer: D — B, A, D, C

    Al-Biruni was taken to Ghazni in 1017; Ibn Battuta reached Sind in 1333 and was sent to China in 1342; Bernier came to India in 1656. Reversing the two Ibn Battuta events is the trap — he served as qazi of Delhi for several years after arriving, and was sent to China only after falling out of favour.
  5. Bernier's argument that there was no private property in land in Mughal India was later used by the French philosopher Montesquieu to develop the idea of:

    1. The separation of powers
    2. The Asiatic mode of production
    3. The village as a little republic
    4. Oriental despotism
    Show answer

    Answer: D — Oriental despotism

    Montesquieu drew on Bernier to describe oriental despotism, in which a ruler stood over subjects who owned nothing. The Asiatic mode of production is the trap: it also grew from Bernier's idea, but it was Karl Marx's concept, in the nineteenth century. The separation of powers is Montesquieu's, but has nothing to do with Bernier.
  6. Assertion (A): Bernier's account of Mughal India is marked by constant comparison with Europe. Reason (R): Bernier wrote in Arabic for readers in the Islamic world.

    1. Both A and R are true, and R is the correct explanation of A
    2. Both A and R are true, but R is not the correct explanation of A
    3. A is true, but R is false
    4. A is false, but R is true
    Show answer

    Answer: C — A is true, but R is false

    Bernier set India against Europe — generally France — throughout his Travels, so A is true. But he was a Frenchman writing for European readers; Arabic was the language of Al-Biruni and Ibn Battuta. Mixing up the three travellers' languages and audiences is exactly what this item tests.
  7. When he arrived at the court of Muhammad bin Tughlaq, Ibn Battuta was appointed:

    1. Physician to the Sultan's eldest son
    2. Qazi, or judge, of Delhi
    3. Governor of Sind
    4. Master of the royal mint
    Show answer

    Answer: B — Qazi, or judge, of Delhi

    Impressed by his scholarship in Islamic law, Muhammad bin Tughlaq made Ibn Battuta the qazi of Delhi, a post he held for several years. Physician to a prince describes Bernier, who served Dara Shukoh three centuries later; the mint is a reminder of James Prinsep, an unrelated figure from a different chapter.
  8. How did Al-Biruni explain his rejection of the notion of pollution in the caste system?

    1. He said the Quran forbade any division of society
    2. He argued that Persia had no social categories at all
    3. He held that whatever becomes impure strives to regain its purity, as the sun cleanses the air, so permanent impurity is against nature
    4. He claimed the Vedas themselves rejected the idea of caste
    Show answer

    Answer: C — He held that whatever becomes impure strives to regain its purity, as the sun cleanses the air, so permanent impurity is against nature

    Al-Biruni argued from the laws of nature: impurity is not permanent, because things that become impure strive to regain purity — the sun cleanses the air and salt keeps the sea from pollution. The Persia option inverts his comparison, since he cited Persia's four social categories precisely to show that social divisions were not unique to India.